MAIN STREET OR LAST CHANCE GULCH - WHICH IS IT?

The answer is: Both. Last Chance Gulch was the name of the actual gulch in which gold was discovered in 1864. The thoroughfare which was built down the Gulch was originally named Main Street. It remained that way for some 85 years, until July 20 1953, when acting Helena Mayor Dr. Amos R. Little, Jr. signed an ordinance officially changing the name of Main Street to Last Chance Gulch. Both names are still used locally for what was once the grand thoroughfare of Helena's business district.

Last Chance Gulch meanders as it does because it was originally routed between mining claims; it was not designed that way to lower fatalities from stray bullets, as some promotional literature has claimed.

The images in this section are arranged so that the viewer will start near the southern end of Last Chance Gulch, and will move north. The images of each stretch of the street -- like "Broadway to Sixth" -- will be arranged in chronological order, more or less.

Some Helena Baby-Boomers will remember, as I do, placing their young feet in Thistlewaite's
X-ray shoe-fitting machine, a hazardous sales gimmick which was banned from the marketplace by the 1960s.

It's interesting, and a little scary, that the newspaper ad states that there's no charge to use the machine, and that people should come in and "Use it freely...whether you're ready to buy or not". Soaking up X-rays just for fun isn't a good idea.

In the early-morning hours of July 16 1928, flames erupted from 28 N. Main St., the building which housed the Curtis Cafe and the Maverick Pool Hall. The rapidly-spreading fire was discovered and reported at 2:00am by Johnny Bukowitz, a printer at the Helena Independent newspaper, who happened to be passing the cafe.

No sooner had the Helena Fire Department responded to the blaze than a torrential hour-long rainstorm began, hampering firefighting efforts but wetting nearby roofs, preventing an even greater catastrophe. Roomers in the adjacent buildings fled into the streets, where they were soon soaked to the skin by the downpour. The storm brought with it shifting winds, which threatened to carry embers in every direction. Frequent lightening bolts illuminated the surreal scene.

In two hours time, the fire was completely out of control, and had spread north destroying numerous businesses. It also crossed over to the east side of Main St., damaging several buildings. Firefighters began concentrating their efforts on saving buildings on Sixth Avenue and the east side of Main. Shop owners and other businessmen hurriedly carried goods, equipment and records from threatened buildings. Explosions were heard when the blaze touched off chemicals stored at the Budd-Fisher Drug Co. The Western Union lines were severed by the fire.

By 6:00am the fire was brought under control, but had destroyed several large commercial buildings housing dozens of businesses. The Granite, Bailey, Gold, and New York Store blocks were reduced to rubble; the Power Block, the A. P. Curtin Block, the Pittsburgh Block, and several other buildings were damaged.

The blaze was far beyond the power of the Helena Fire Department to cope with; water pressure was adequate, but too few hoses and too few men could be brought to bear.

The bustling two-way traffic on the Gulch, and the abundance and variety of stores are enough to bring a tear to an old Helenan's eye.

Notice that Woolworth's had by that time replaced their striped canvas awning and classic red and gold sign with a charmless aluminum and plastic soffit.

This extensive asphalt repaving and sewer repair project also removed the streetcar rails and underlaying 1905 brick paving.

Main Street was first paved in 1892, with hot coal tar over a macadam base. In 1905, the stretch between Cutler Street north to Helena Avenue was paved with bricks.

In the above photo, the man in khaki, with hands hips, is James Nelson. The cement truck on the right is still in operation today.

The Cabin Cafe had by then become Bryant's, and a prominent "Kuppenheimer" had been added to the Anderson Clothing sign.

Built in 1905 to replace the original 1893 building which was destroyed by arson, the new Club was designed by noted architect Cass Gilbert.

NOTE: You may download an excellent illustrated history (pdf format) of the design and building of the second Montana Club, from the Drumlummon Institute's "Drumlummon Views" online magazine:

“‘Unique and Handsome’: Cass Gilbert’s Designs for the Montana Club,”
by Patty Dean

On the left of the view above can be seen the sign for the A. P. Curitn Music and Art store.:

1925 Ad for the A. P. Curtin Music & Art store.

The Safeway market, seen here on the left in the former Helena Meat Co. building, would soon move to the NE corner of Placer and Fuller; the Ben Franklin variety store would subsequently occupy this space.

Also seen on the left are Gamble's, Singer Sewing Machines, and Parchen Drug. On the right are the First National Bank, the J. C. Penney Co., and - in the Power Block - Goldberg's Furriers.

At top center is the Union Bank "Weather Ball", a white translucent sphere which gave the latest weather forecast at night via colored-coded lights inside. The bank's often-played radio jingle gave the code, and permanently emplanted itself in the brains of a generation of Helenans:

"Union Weather Ball red as fire, the temperature is going higher.
Union Weather Ball white as snow, down the temperature will go.
When the Weather Ball is green, no change in temperature is foreseen.
Weather Ball flashing night or day, rain or snow is on the way."

There may be an uglier postcard of Helena, but I've never seen it. Now known as the Donovan Building, the boxy 1963 J. C. Penny Co. store was designed by Portland architects Edmondson & Kochendoerfer. In the summer of 2008, a second story was added to the structure...

For many years, Main News was operated by Mr. Harry Stone (1893 - 1972). He stocked a wide variety of magazines, newspapers, comic books, penny candy, pop, cigars, pipes, fishing reels, knives... You could also get your fishing and hunting licenses there. It was a wonderful place to go; indeed, it was a window to the outside world, and also to the world of fantasy.

My lasting memories of Main News include the smell of new comic books and magazines, the array of colorful penny candy in the deep oak showcase, and the taste of cream soda sipped through a paper straw. There were shelves of cigars in open boxes, with beautifully printed pictorial labels on the lids. Rows of sharp new jackknives covered a showcase shelf.

Mr. Stone would let customers use the ancient restroom in the rear of the store; it was the kind with the tank mounted on the wall high above the toilet, with a long flush-chain hanging down. It made a terrific noise.

Harry Stone looked a bit like President Eisenhower, and usually wore a bolo tie with an agate stone. He was always nice.

Thank you, Harry.

Built to replace the Warren St. Arsenal which was destroyed in the 1935 earthquakes, this building is now occupied by State of Montana offices.

For many years, traveling shows, such as the Siebrand Bros. Circus and Carnival, would set up on the large open area behind the Armory. In September of 1953, the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailry Circus set up their big top.